Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Destination 3° (Degrees)

Destination 3° (Degrees): 3° of latitude between the Hawaiian Islands, more than 200 nautical miles, 2 female stand up paddlers, 7 legendary open-ocean Hawaiian Island channels and 1 goal - to raise awareness and funds for the Algalita Marine Research Foundation (AMRF).

Destination 3° (Degrees) - Jenny Kalmbach and Morgan Hoestereyphoto: Jenny and Morgan on a practice run

On April 7, 2010, Jenny Kalmbach and Morgan Hoesterey began an ocean adventure like no other. They were determined to stand up paddle the 7 infamous channels between the Hawaiian Islands to rediscover the beauty of Hawai'i and increase awareness on the impact plastics contamination has on the coastlines and ocean life. As Morgan stated in an interview: "I really want people to understand that even if you don’t live right on the water, we all have an impact on the ocean". RESPECT.

Destination 3° (Degrees) - Equipment Checklistphoto: how's this for an equipment check list?!

Right now, they're on Oahu getting ready to paddle 65 miles across the Ka'ie'iewaho channel between Oahu and Kauai guided by a full moon. They've already paddled the 'Alenuihaha (Big Island to Maui), 'Alalakeiki (Maui to Kaho'olawe), Auau (Maui to Lanai), Pailolo (Maui to Molokai) and Kaiwi (Molokai to Oahu) channels. After the Ka'ie'iewaho, all that's left is the Kaulakahi channel between Kauai and Ni'ihau.

Destination 3° (Degrees) - Hawaiian Islands Mapphoto: Hawai'i and its legendary open-ocean channels

They're not just stand up paddling either... they're diving, hiking and exploring all of the islands and logging their observations and experiences for us to follow. How awesome is that?

Check out their website and Facebook page for the latest on their adventure!

Destination 3° (Degrees) - http://destination3.com
Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/destination3
Algalita Marine Research Foundation - http://www.algalita.org



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Monday, April 26, 2010

Kook or Kool?

Here's a good tutorial on Stand Up Paddling etiquette that was written by Blane Chambers, shaper and owner of Paddle Surf Hawaii. We, as Stand Up Paddlers, should be conscious of our actions and how it impacts the dynamics and vibes in the water. So sit down, relax and spread da aloha spirit because you don't want to be portrayed as this guy in your local lineup...

Cardiff Statue - No Sweepersphoto: proper SUP etiquette will get respect... don't be this guy

Paddle Surf Hawaii - Kook or Kool:
http://www.paddlesurfhawaii.com/kook-and-kool.html

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How are you representing Stand Up Paddle Surfing?

Are you Dangerous to others? Are you a WAVE HOG?

When Beach Boy surfing, there are
Kool things and things that make you a huge KOOK!
This section is dedicated to
Kook & Kool!

1. You paddle out floundering to a lineup with surfers. You can barely stay standing but proceed right into or outside of the lineup. You paddle for waves while people scramble out of your way only to fall off before you can even get on the wave.... Your big board becomes an extremely dangerous projectile... Kook alert!!
KOOK!! KOOK!! KOOK!! KOOK!!

2. You can barely stay standing so you practice in an area where no one is around that you could endanger or bum out. You care about the world wide effects of SUP surfing so you paddle and surf with Aloha.
Very KOOL!!

3. You start to get the hang of it and want to surf better waves so you decide to surf a more popular spot. You paddle out and stand outside everyone. The sets come and you paddle in like a locomotive right thru the pack. You get waves in every set...
KOOK!!

4. You start to get the hang of it and want to surf better waves so you decide to surf a more popular spot. You paddle out and check out the situation. You see waves off to the side that a lot less people go for. You catch a few of those... Since you don't want to wear out your welcome, you decide to catch only a few set waves at most. You surf with Aloha....
KOOL!

5. You paddle out on an in-consistent day to a crowded spot. You stand outside everyone the whole duration of the lulls. You never sit down so you tower over others the whole time... You make sure you catch a wave from every set.
KOOK!

6. You paddle out on an in-consistent day to a crowded spot. You feel like you're on stage so you stand off to the side or sit down between sets because you don't like blocking everyone's view of the beautiful ocean. You catch a couple waves then move to the inside or on to another spot or just paddle around because you figured out how to surf with Aloha...
KOOL!!

7. You're pretty good and can get in and around the surf well... You surf crowded spots and catch all the waves you can. Small ones, set waves etc. Because you can surf good you get plenty waves. You're always calling people off your waves. You just can't help yourself to sit sets out so you basically take over the spot for the duration of your surf.
HUGE SELFISH KOOK!!!!!!!!

8. You're pretty good and can get in and around the surf well... You go to a crowded spot and check out what's going on. You see some of the lesser quality waves going un-ridden and surf those. You catch a ton of waves but ones that no one really wants. You paddle out and get a few set waves but you make sure others get waves by quietly cluing them in to incoming sets. You become a quiet spotter of sorts for others to score good waves.... You always sit out a few sets. You use your high vantage point to stoke others out.
KOOL!! (When you arrive and it's already crowded NOT GOING OUT THERE is the KOOLEST!)

9. You see how cool SUP surfing is because you can paddle fast and want to get back at those greedy longboarders. You decide to get into it to take over and be the dominent surfer at any spot at any time. Do the entire surfing world a favor and don't get into it. You are the biggest
KOOK!!!!!!

10. You see how cool SUP surfing is because you can do something that is a challenge, get great exercise, paddle far up the coast at will, have a blast riding waves you never thought would be fun, discover new spots, like to enjoy the comraderie of the SUP surfers around the world.
KOOL!!

Note:

If there are more than one of you SUP surfing, everything becomes doubled, tripled, quadrupled, etc.
Avoid heavy rotations with other SUP surfers when surfing with others.
Be aware of your actions and the actions of others.
BE KOOL!



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Sunday, April 25, 2010

Manini In Da Pond

The high tide swamp thing, weak wind swell and unstable weather (eddy) conditions made for a so-so surf weekend. That's ok because this was all trumped when I had the rare opportunity to meet and talk stories with some "heavyweights" in the Stand Up Paddle world.

Blane Chambers, Jim Brewer, Ted Rutherford and Uncle R.
SO STOKED!!!!! I still can't believe it happened. I was sitting between people who were there when SUP made a comeback and before it exploded into the public eye... guys who pioneered and revolutionized the sport and continue to redefine what can be done in the water, standing on a piece of foam with a paddle. I was definitely a small fish in a big pond... in fact I'm the manini that's not even in the same pond as these braddahs.

The awesome part about it all was how down to earth, humble and easy-going all of these guys were. It was definitely a night I will never forget.


photo: the best sets always come when you're not in the water!


photo: A framin'

photo: there's a nice right back there, somewhere

photo: fighting through the high tide swamp thing

photo: different day, but good times

photo: nice hack for such a tiny wave


Paddle Surf Hawaii:
http://www.paddlesurfhawaii.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Paddle-Surf-Hawaii/252040465060

Blueline Stand Up Paddle Surf
:
http://www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com

http://www.facebook.com/bluelinepaddlesurf


C4 Waterman
:
http://www.c4waterman.com



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Thursday, April 22, 2010

West Wind, No Surf and Mean Pictures

West winds. Basically it means straight on shore for most of San Diego County... and that equates to crappy, blown-out surf. It also means my wetsuit and SUP deck pad are now bone dry... dammit.

photo: just a tad onshore...

This means I end up cruisin' the Internet looking for insane SUP surfing pictures to try and distract my mind from the crappiness of no surf. It's safe to say I've found a
few.

I won't unleash them all today, but here's a little sample of my favorites...

Ikaika Kalama - Paddle Surf Hawaii - Bottom TurnIkaika Kalama - all in!
shot by Jim Russi

Ikaika Kalama - Paddle Surf Hawaii - BarreledIkaika Kalama - shacked!
shot by Pete Hogdson

Ikaika Kalama - Paddle Surf Hawaii - BarreledIkaika Kalama - heavy!
shot by Pete Hogdson

Blane Chambers - Paddle Surf Hawaii - Ku Ikaika Makaha BombBlane Chambers - Makaha BOMB
courtesy of Paddle Surf Hawaii

Blane Chambers - Paddle Surf Hawaii - Ku Ikaika Makaha GlassBlane Chambers - Makaha Glass
courtesy of Paddle Surf Hawaii

Stewart Ferriman - Paddle Surf Hawaii - BarreledStewart Ferriman - one of the 1st SUP barrel photos I saw
courtesy of Paddle Surf Hawaii

Riggs Napoleon - Paddle Surf Hawaii - Sunset Beach Pro - Stand Up World Tour SUP ContestRiggs Napoleon - 12 yrs. old and CHARGING!
photo by Allen Mozo



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Sunday, April 18, 2010

Return To North County

I woke up this morning to some major fog issues and a quick cam check showed clear skies and southern lines pushing through North County. I contemplated changing up my fins but I decided to stay with my current setup (4.5" True Ames and Future Vector II FEA 450's) on the 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper so I could get a feel for it in some decent surf. I also had to dig up the Kialoa Methane since my wood paddle is now an art piece in my house.

I made my return to the same spot I wrote about two weeks ago, but this time there was more swell... and more crowd. I got there early (6:30am) enough to beat most of the crowd, but by the time I left (around 10am), it felt like there were 100 people out there all dropping in on each other! Crrraaazzzzzzzzy!!

photo: fun waves, but lots of people

I paddled back and forth between 2 peaks, one rolling left and the other was a nice peeling right with lots of different sections to mix it up. Since I'm a "regular" foot, I love my rights but I also like the challenge of going backside on waves with some power to it and being able to arc a big turn and hit the whitewater.
photo: fun left that I surfed all alone

The one thing I really practiced today was my frontside "paddle to the inside" cutback. It's something I've tried before, but the waves I usually surf don't offer those big shoulders to drive into for those long drawn out turns. I watched a YouTube video of Kai Lenny at Makaha so many times, trying to learn from his technique. I got it a few times and ate shit a lot because I was either leaning too much or I would slide out. Oh well, gotta practice... I guess now I have a good excuse to surf more!

photo: the visitors hanging around



YouTube: Kai Lenny by Mike Waltze



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Saturday, April 17, 2010

Low Tide, Combo Swells and a Broken Paddle

Well, a couple of days ago, we had some combo swell pushing through my morning spot on a -0.46 ft. low tide. On the extreme tide days, I typically wake up, check the winds, buoys and swell readings and the streaming camera just to confirm that I would be better off under the warm blankets in bed. For some reason, this day felt different and I decided to chance um.

photo: good morning San Diego

I parked in my usual spot and sat for a few minutes observing the little dredgers rolling through. Usually, it looks like one big 300 yard closeout up and down the beach, but on that day, some funky rip currents created a couple fun sandbars that broke up the lines just enough to form some steep, hollow drops and fast sections that tapered off in to a mini "channel". I slipped into my wetsuit and paddled out.

9'1 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper - Outlinephoto: weapon of choice - 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper

The waves weren't big, I'd call it 2' Hawaiian, but they offered up some steep, fast, hollow sections that really put my 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper to the test. Fitting a big board into hollow waves is definitely not easy... guys like Ikaika Kalama just make it look easy.

photo: fin setup of choice - 4.5" True Ames & Vector II FEA 450's

I caught a couple of decent waves that raced along the sandbar, but one wave in particular altered the rest of my surf session. This wave was a random rogue wave (you know those 1 wave sets), maybe 3', that was coming straight to me. Turned around, took off, made a sketchy drop and as I was drawing out a bottom turn, I hit a chop or wake (I'm not sure was it was since I didn't see it) that bucked me off my board, face-planting me into the face of the wave. At this point, I'm just trying to cover up because I know my board is somewhere in the wave... and somewhere very close. I'm holding on to my paddle through the spin-cycle I'm in when I feel a solid "thud" come up through my paddle. "Shit" I told myself, but as I pulled my board in, I gave it a quick visual check and everything looked good... checked the paddle... dammit, paddle shaft must've hit the board cause I see some white scuffing and a little nick in the glassing on my paddle.

photo: notice the white scuffage before the the carnage

After floating around and contemplating for a little while, I decide to keep surfing and "5-minute epoxy fix" my paddle when I get home. Normally, this is not a problem, except for the location of the damage... right where my bottom hand grips the paddle. This should've been a red flag warning.

So after I convince myself that everything is all good, I catch a few more waves. A quick time check and I see I have about 15 more minutes before I have to get out and head to work. I catch 2 smaller waves but decide to paddle back out for my "last wave"... you know that wave you catch where the stars, moon and sun align and you pull off some crazy shit that you've been practicing for weeks? Yeah, that wave.

I spot a set coming in and paddle over to position myself where the bigger waves stand up (note: I'm surfing this peak by myself and 100 yards south, there's a mirror image left that 25 prone guys are surfing). After the first 2 go by, the 3rd one is looking good so I turn, paddle and take off. I bottom turn and try to draw a line to setup a little cover up. "Damn, I'm going way too fast" the voice in my head tells me. Plan B was to pump through this fast section and hit the shoulder of the wave going Mach 5. The PSH Ripper is feeling lively under my feet as I build speed making the last foot adjustment in an attempt to lay some rail. One last quick hop up the wave face and I plant my paddle and start digging my heels in. Halfway through the turn, I'm really weighting my heels and my bottom hand (right hand) on my paddle shaft when it happens... CCCCRRRRAAAAAAAAAAACKKKK!

photo: crack kills!

It's the single most disgusting sound you want to hear when you're using anything made of wood. It happened so fast. I finish off one of my best cutbacks to date, rebound off the whitewater and straighten out to the beach with a "deer in headlights" look. On the beach, I can't really see the full extent of the damage so I decide to let it dry out while I'm at work and reassess when I get home.

photo: ouch.

WOW... paddle is buss. After getting over the "death" of my favorite paddle, I contact David Alipio, who designed and shaped this paddle for me. His explanation was simple and to the point:
"From the sounds of where it broke, yeah, that's the usual place it would break as it is right in the middle of the 2 fulcrum point, the blade planted in the water, and the top hand holding the handle. Putting pressure on a layback, especially if it already got a small crease/crack, right where your bottom hand goes will do it." BUMMER.

photo: crack from side

photo: crack from the other side

I gotta hand it to David though, this was the 6th paddle he designed and from what I can tell, he's definitely on to something. For now, it's back to the Kialoa Methane until I can work with David to design the next paddle. Prototype #006 is now going to be a piece of art in my house.

Aloha 'oe #006, it's been a good run.




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Thursday, April 15, 2010

9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper - Teaser

Let the obsession continue! Recently, I had the rare opportunity to pick up a used, but in excellent condition hand-glassed 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper.

9'1 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper - Nose Viewphoto: introducing the 9'1" PSH Ripper

I have a dozen sessions under my belt so far and I'm still feeling the board out. Even though I've had 2 Paddle Surf Hawaii hand-glassed boards in the past, this one was
different. The pulled-in nose and EPS/Epoxy construction makes this board a little more tippy than my previous 2 EPS/Epoxy PSH All Arounders (9'6" & 10'3") and the molded epoxy 9'3" PSH Ripper. This was very noticeable in my first few sessions, but I expected that... going to a smaller board with less "float" always takes some time to get used to.

9'1 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper - Tail Viewphoto: my new SUP flavor of the month!

Right now, I'm running a "thruster" setup: 4.5" True Ames center fin and Future Vector II FEA 450's. So far, so good. Board has good drive and it's really loose, which is awesome for me since my primary (and closest) surf spot is a beach break. I'll definitely start experimenting soon though.

9'1 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper - Finsphoto: 4.5" True Ames and Future Vector II FEA 450's

Since this is now my go-to daily board, I'll be posting my experiences and thoughts as often as possible so stay tuned and follow the San Diego adventures of this 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper!



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Monday, April 12, 2010

The Big Island - Home Sweet Home

I was just sitting here thinking about how crowded Southern California is and started thinking about home... ahh yes... the Big Island, Hawai'i.

photo: Mauna Kea & Hilo Bay

I started thinking about all the insane places we've camped, fished, dove, surfed and cruised at. There's no place like the Big Island if you're looking to get away from civilization...

photo: we're halfway there...

photo: this is what's waiting for us down the hill

I miss the days when all the boys would pack up 5 days worth of food, water, beer, firewood and all the ocean gear and make our drive to some of the most secluded spots on the island. I'm talking about places that have never been touched by civilization. No water, no electricity. 15 miles of some of the most rugged offroad, 4x4 lava trails that ate CV boots and tire treads for breakfast... lunch... and dinner. No city lights, no traffic, no buildings or houses...
nothing.

photo: this is paradise


photo: view above our camp spot

photo: moonrise

We would spend all day and night fishing, diving, cruising at the beach and talking stories without a worry in the world. We would explore the
'aina (land) for miles looking for 'opihi, dive holes, surf spots, petroglyphs or anything that got caught up in the currents of the Pacific and deposited along the empty coastline.

photo: braddah Jimi about to stone his next victim


photo: secret...

photo: camp fire = talk story

Pound
'opihi for snack, grilled menpachi and 'aweoweo for lunch, steaks and fresh spiny lobsters for dinner. How's that? Pretty nuts if you ask me. Camp grinds is basically da bomb and no California burrito or carne asada fries can come close to it, fo' shizzle.

photo: schuckin' da 'opihi

Lifetime bonds were developed during these trips. Memories that we'll talk about when we're 40, 50, 60...
forever.

photo: cruisin' under the moon

Ahh... the Big Island. We will reunite soon and it will be like I never left.

photo: aloha 'oe



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Sunday, April 11, 2010

9'3" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper

Here it is, the highly-acclaimed 9'3" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper model. One session on this board and I knew that my other "lay down" boards would never see the light of day again... that's right Mr. Donald Takayama Ehukai model, Mr. Chronic Keegan Edwards Pro model, Mr. Carl Schaper Bonga egg, you guys are now in the back seat... Mr. PSH Ripper is now up in shotgun.

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Modelphoto: 9'3" Paddle Surf Ripper!

This board was a major change from my previous 2 SUP boards (10'3" & 9'6")... pulled in nose, less volume and aggressive rocker & foil. Here's the details:
9'3" x 28 3/8" x 4 1/4"
molded PVC epoxy contruction
2+1 (FCS and long fin box)
diamond tail
single to double barrel concave

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Model - cutbackphoto: attempt at a cutback

No more cruisin'. This board was meant to be surfed... and surfed hard.
Tight carving turns, pocket surfing, lip-bashing, the list goes on and on. I was amazed at the level I could take this board and I guarantee it goes far beyond my skill levels. Shit, guys like Ikaika Kalama and Kainoa McGee are charging 2nd reef Pipe on this same model!

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Model - off the top photo: off the top

The problem I had with my All Arounders while surfing semi-hollow to hollow waves was the pearl factor. The 9'6" could make it, but it was a tricky takeoff process. The pulled in nose and aggressive rocker of the 9'3" Ripper virtually eliminated my part-time pearl diving business that I was running at the local beach break. Rahjah!

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Model - backside carvephoto: backside carvin'

After some limited fin experimentation, I eventually settled on FCS FG-5's and a 5 1/2" Fins Unlimited Kanoa Dahlin K2D2 center fin. I didn't like the feel of a big (6 1/2" or larger) center fin and smaller 3 1/2" - 4" side bites. With the bigger fins, the Ripper gives me nice down the line speed and allows me to snap tighter turns, which were priorities since I was mainly surfing fast, hollow beach breaks.

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Model - outlinephoto: nice outline

Paddling the Ripper was no problem. At first, I was a little unsteady since I came down from a 9'6" All Arounder, but after the first couple sessions, things started to come naturally. Straight line and distance paddling wasn't a big deal. I'm not saying I would take this board out for a 8 mile cruise, but I could shift around different peaks with ease.

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Model - small wavesphoto: small waves...? he go!

The biggest concern I had was the fact that it was a molded epoxy board. The construction was solid, but I wondered if this board would be "corky" like the Surftech longboards I've surfed in the past. All was answered when I took the Ripper out in a decent sized swell. Surprisingly, it wasn't "corky" like I was expecting! I think it probably has to do with the shape and design of the board... and that's my "I know nothing about shaping surfboards" guess. It carved through turns with ease and handled the soup a lot better than my Surftech boards ever did.

9'3 Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper Model - solid constructionphoto: solid construction... it put up with ass beatings like this

Overall, the 9'3" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper was everything I expected and more. Crazy maneuverability, stable, fast down the line, solid construction... this board is nuuutttttsssssss!!!


Check out PSH's web site: Paddle Surf Hawaii - 9'3" Ripper



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