Well, a couple of days ago, we had some combo swell pushing through my morning spot on a -0.46 ft. low tide. On the extreme tide days, I typically wake up, check the winds, buoys and swell readings and the streaming camera just to confirm that I would be better off under the warm blankets in bed. For some reason, this day felt different and I decided to chance um.
photo: good morning San Diego
I parked in my usual spot and sat for a few minutes observing the little dredgers rolling through. Usually, it looks like one big 300 yard closeout up and down the beach, but on that day, some funky rip currents created a couple fun sandbars that broke up the lines just enough to form some steep, hollow drops and fast sections that tapered off in to a mini "channel". I slipped into my wetsuit and paddled out.
photo: weapon of choice - 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper
The waves weren't big, I'd call it 2' Hawaiian, but they offered up some steep, fast, hollow sections that really put my 9'1" Paddle Surf Hawaii Ripper to the test. Fitting a big board into hollow waves is definitely not easy... guys like Ikaika Kalama just make it look easy.
photo: fin setup of choice - 4.5" True Ames & Vector II FEA 450's
I caught a couple of decent waves that raced along the sandbar, but one wave in particular altered the rest of my surf session. This wave was a random rogue wave (you know those 1 wave sets), maybe 3', that was coming straight to me. Turned around, took off, made a sketchy drop and as I was drawing out a bottom turn, I hit a chop or wake (I'm not sure was it was since I didn't see it) that bucked me off my board, face-planting me into the face of the wave. At this point, I'm just trying to cover up because I know my board is somewhere in the wave... and somewhere very close. I'm holding on to my paddle through the spin-cycle I'm in when I feel a solid "thud" come up through my paddle. "Shit" I told myself, but as I pulled my board in, I gave it a quick visual check and everything looked good... checked the paddle... dammit, paddle shaft must've hit the board cause I see some white scuffing and a little nick in the glassing on my paddle.
photo: notice the white scuffage before the the carnage
After floating around and contemplating for a little while, I decide to keep surfing and "5-minute epoxy fix" my paddle when I get home. Normally, this is not a problem, except for the location of the damage... right where my bottom hand grips the paddle. This should've been a red flag warning.
So after I convince myself that everything is all good, I catch a few more waves. A quick time check and I see I have about 15 more minutes before I have to get out and head to work. I catch 2 smaller waves but decide to paddle back out for my "last wave"... you know that wave you catch where the stars, moon and sun align and you pull off some crazy shit that you've been practicing for weeks? Yeah, that wave.
I spot a set coming in and paddle over to position myself where the bigger waves stand up (note: I'm surfing this peak by myself and 100 yards south, there's a mirror image left that 25 prone guys are surfing). After the first 2 go by, the 3rd one is looking good so I turn, paddle and take off. I bottom turn and try to draw a line to setup a little cover up. "Damn, I'm going way too fast" the voice in my head tells me. Plan B was to pump through this fast section and hit the shoulder of the wave going Mach 5. The PSH Ripper is feeling lively under my feet as I build speed making the last foot adjustment in an attempt to lay some rail. One last quick hop up the wave face and I plant my paddle and start digging my heels in. Halfway through the turn, I'm really weighting my heels and my bottom hand (right hand) on my paddle shaft when it happens... CCCCRRRRAAAAAAAAAAACKKKK!
photo: crack kills! It's the single most disgusting sound you want to hear when you're using anything made of wood. It happened so fast. I finish off one of my best cutbacks to date, rebound off the whitewater and straighten out to the beach with a "deer in headlights" look. On the beach, I can't really see the full extent of the damage so I decide to let it dry out while I'm at work and reassess when I get home.
photo: ouch.
WOW... paddle is buss. After getting over the "death" of my favorite paddle, I contact David Alipio, who designed and shaped this paddle for me. His explanation was simple and to the point:
"From the sounds of where it broke, yeah, that's the usual place it would break as it is right in the middle of the 2 fulcrum point, the blade planted in the water, and the top hand holding the handle. Putting pressure on a layback, especially if it already got a small crease/crack, right where your bottom hand goes will do it." BUMMER.
photo: crack from side
photo: crack from the other side
I gotta hand it to David though, this was the 6th paddle he designed and from what I can tell, he's definitely on to something. For now, it's back to the Kialoa Methane until I can work with David to design the next paddle. Prototype #006 is now going to be a piece of art in my house.
Aloha 'oe #006, it's been a good run.